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Lumber Sizes

mordrogyn

Member
This is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to bare in mind for your build...

Whatever your plans say you must take into account the fact that the size of a piece of lumber on paper is not the actual size.

If your plans call for 2x4, bear in mind that the actual lumber is 1.5x3.5
If your plans call for 2x6, bear in mind that the actual lumber is 1.5x5.5

Failure to do so can and will result in you having gaps in your build where gaps should not be.

e.g.

The distance between your posts will be greater than you are expecting if you are basing your build on the "supposed" sizes.
Then if you build your wall section according to what your plans say they may not meet the posts.

There is nothing as frustrating as realizing that you have to fix work that you have already done, or worse, redo it all together.
 
I'm confused...  ???

If I go out to buy 2x4, I measure it to make sure it's 2x4 and not anything else.

Perhaps I've missed something?
 
I've also been caught out by this.

Wall-stud lumber/timber is often of a nominal 2"x4" size (50mm x 100mm in metric countries). But this is usually the rough-sawn size before it's planed smooth. Stud timbers can end up 1.5" thick or sometimes 1.75" thick depending on where you get them. I think some places will even sell planed wood that's actually 2"x4".

Absurdly, in the UK 2"x4"s are often called "50mm x 100mm" when they are actually often 38mm x 89mm! The British have also invented the "metric foot" which is exactly 300mm long. It's quite hard to buy a 1000mm piece of wood here, but 900mm and 1200mm lengths are common place.
Plywood comes in sheets that are 1220mm x 2440mm (which is pretty close to 4' x 8'). Sometimes people even mix measurements, so you get an item that's 6 feet long by 8mm thick (gak!). Metric by degrees...

Crispin
 
Yes, P.A.R (planed all round) is usually undersize, unlike it's rough sawn or treated equivelant.  However, if you buy your wood from a timberyard you'll find the sizes are nearer to what they should be than the wood you'll get from a d.i.y store like Wickes(if you're in the UK).  DIY stores don't stock first grade.
DIY stores also tend to stack their timber in an upright position, often bound and sealed in packs.  This does the wood no good and prevents you from looking down the line of each piece to check for straightness.
Decent timber merchants store the timber on the flat, indoors and on shelves, which stops it from warping.  
If trying to get exact sizes, buy your wood oversize and hire a thicknesser or get the yard to run it down to your spec.  
:)
 
I build a LOT of things, including real aircraft, steam engines and small locomotives. The FIRST thing to do is obtain a set of plans, and then do an ABSOLUTE MEASUREMENT CHECK on them, to insure they are logical, correct, and everything matches and lines up. NEVER CUT WOOD UNTIL YOU KNOW THE EXACT SIZE YOU NEED. THEN CUT TO THAT SIZE, AND EVERYTHING WILL FIT PERFECTLY. As mentioned ALL STOCK SIZE LUMBER WILL BE OFF, TO VARYING DEGREES. KNOW WHAT YOU NEED, DIMENSIONWISE, CHECK IT WHEN YOU BUY THE LUMBER TO BE SURE IT WILL FIT, (No matter WHAT they call it!) and then cut it to your pre-determined correct size.
 
There's someplace an explainer for American audiences in the show "This Old House" or "Ask This Old House" where their master carpenter Tommy Silva gave an explanation of why actual dimensional 2x4s went down in size and I wish I could find it or remember the reason, but it had to do with a sort of post WW2 standardization as best I remember and I think that shaving off the dimensions was to save lumber yards money.

Before that even into the industrial revolution I think the deal was that a lot of construction lumber might be locally sourced and cut by small business and the 'dimensional' 2x4's might not themselves always be consistent from source to source.

As I come at TARDIS building it's with what general knowledge I half remember from watching nearly 50 years of TOH on tv since I was a teen. I often use their site and vids on YouTube to solve an issue I'm not 100% confident I know how to do or use certain tools.

A great resource is Norm Abraham's "New Yankee Woodshop" to just give you overviews on how to use woodworking tools SAFELY. I'm often frightened when I have someone in my show to use my table saw and how cavalier they are with "I got this" and I have to stop them before they push something thru with their bare hands way too close to the spinning blades. Know your tools and how to use them - SAFELY!

For several years I sold tools at Lowe's and I can't tell you how many times I went to shake hands with some guy who had less than 10 complete fingers!
 
I teach a local Makerspace "Intro to the Metal Lathe" course, and the subject machine to get people started is a 1953 Logan lathe. It is fairly small, and drives off of a leather belt on the headstock. The belt is a poor fit, and if something happens with the lathe, it would probably just slip the belt, and no harm done. I consider it a "little kitten" of a lathe.

HOWEVER, we now have a 7 hp, Direct Geared Takisawa Industrial Lathe, and it has taken us several months to come up with a way to teach THAT to people who have very little machine tool experience. In fact, when the subject of a course for this machine was raised, it was pointed out by several people (myself included) that this new machine was a VERY DANGEROUS piece of equipment. In my first intro to the small lathe, I point out it's low power, and how safe it is, relatively speaking. And then I point out that the Takisawa is very different. When you mess up with a woodworking tool, you get some stitches and bandages for a few weeks. But a gear-driven metal lathe or mill, of multiple horsepower, is a different situation. I usually tell students to go on YouTube, and watch some of the lathe accidents (predominantly from 3rd World countries where the safety standards are lax or non-existent, compared to the U.S. or other more progressive countries) Someone who gets caught in a heavy lathe or mill usually dies, or at the very least has a limb removed. There are many videos where the lathe operator is reduced to component parts, and the machine never DOES STOP until someone else in the factory physically turns it off. The wood saws at the local Xerocraft Makerspace have "instant stop" blade brakes, so the second a finger touches a spinning blade, it stops with a BANG! The person using the saw is then required to pay for a new blade brake, as they are a one-use item that needs replaced every time it fires.

So far, in the 3 years I have been teaching the course, we have had NO injuries of any kind with the small lathe, and I am hoping this continues with the heavy lathe. I give a pretty good 'scare talk" when introducing students to either machine. The Logan is badly out of tune, is poorly mounted on a warehouse wooden floor that was erected over 100 years ago, and the entire facility is in a former warehouse that is 30 feet from railroad tracks that get a VERT HEAVY freight train about every 15 minutes. HOWEVER, even with these known deficiencies, students do a VERY GOOD JOB of sneaking up on their tolerances, nearly ALL of them working to + or - .001" on the training project. I always tell them that if they can accomplish THAT, then they will have no trouble working with ANY OTHER LATHE, as the Logan is about the worst beginning you could have for a machine tool, but my training course deals with how to get the best out of it, and nearly all students DO THIS. I had one young lady who actually got EVERY SINGLE DIMENSION DEAD ON for the starter project, and I would say that about 90% of the students get the idea and can work to VERY close dimensions.

Training, and the safety talk is really critical in starting them off right in the use of tools. I commend you on your efforts for safety and training with new students! Getting off to a good start will pay off for them for YEARS into the future.
 
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